爱尔兰一登山队将于2008年春天从东南坡攀登珠峰

一个爱尔兰小队在Gavin Bate的带领下将于2008年春天从东南坡攀登珠峰。如果这次攀登成功，小组成员Kinch 和Taylor 将成为攀登珠峰的最年轻的爱尔兰人。为了准备此次珠峰攀登，Kinch 和Taylor在2007年4月到7月分别攀登了3个大洲的3座山峰。他们已经攀完山勃朗峰和乞力马扎罗，并在12月27日前往阿根廷攀登阿空加瓜山。

由于这个队的人数较少，所以他们的灵活性较大。他们将用Gorak Shep (起源于1953年的大本营)作为自已的大本营并在邻峰实施他们的风土化计划，例如：Pokalde, Island Peak and Lobuje。

南部的尼泊尔珠峰

大本营-17,500英尺（5350米）

这是一幅达到珠峰的图片。大本营位于17,500 英尺，攀峰者将从这里真正攀登珠峰。救助人员在此监视此次探险，必要时提供医疗援助。许多组织往往提供大本营的徒步旅行因为旅行并不是技术上的挑战。从大本营，攀峰者开始接受专门的训练并让身体适应缺氧的恶劣环境。这种培训和休养在整个攀登中持续。

冰川也是处于不断的运动中，比房子还要大的冰川悬挂在攀峰者的头上，随时都会掉下来。冰川往往位于17,500 到19,500 英尺之间。

营地1-5900米

经过冰川，攀峰者到达位于19，500英尺的第一站营地。营地1和营地2之间是众所周知的西部大山谷。当攀峰者达到位于21，000英尺的第二站营地，基地的救助人员也许暂时看不到他们。无论如何，现代通讯装置会和他们取得联系。

营地II-6500米

当攀峰者离开营地II，他们就向洛子峰出发（洛子峰毗邻珠穆琅玛，海拔27,920英尺）。洛子峰很陡，到处都是闪闪发光的冰墙。虽然从技术角度上看攀登洛子峰并不是很困难,但一失足或滑倒就会丧失登山人的生命。事实上，许多攀峰者因一失足而丧失了自己的生命。

营地III - 23,700 英尺(7200米)

为了到达营地III，攀峰者必须攀越洛子峰。攀登这样的冰墙需要技巧，力量和后劲。所以许多夏尔巴人直接从营地II 攀向营地IV。

营地IV - 26,300 英尺 (8000米)

当攀峰者离开营地 IV，山坡变得有些陡峭，到处都是岩石，只能依靠固定绳索来前进。但问题是很难抓住绳子，一不小心就会滑下去。幸运的是这里不是很陡，但攀峰者到达这里时感到很疲乏。在这里，戴氧气罩会看不到脚底下的路。所以一些攀峰者离开营地IV时不戴氧气罩，这样可以看到脚下的碎石并安全地前行。

死亡之谷位于26,000英尺，虽然这里的海拔没有什么奇妙之处，但是许多攀峰者因不适应这里的气候而失去生命-这也是"死亡之谷"名字的由来。

位于26,000英尺的营地 IV是到达珠峰之前的最后一个营地。攀峰者在这里做最后的准备，这里也决定攀峰者是否能成功到达珠峰。夏尔巴人或攀峰者在这里等待返回的登山者并给他们提供用品和热茶。

顶峰-29,028 英尺 (8848 米)

攀峰者一旦到达Hillary Step,他们就减速前行并努力地向29,028英尺的顶峰攀登。这个山峰是世界最高峰。由于气压降低，这里只有海平面气压的1/3.攀峰者到达这里时通常会拍照来纪念这一伟大的胜利。欣赏美景后他们尽快返回营地IV。众所周知，返回地面比攀峰更危险。

　　原文：Irish Everest Expedition 2008

　　A small Irish team made up of Graham Kinch (a 29 year old telecoms strategist) and Ian Taylor (a 29 year old leisure centre assistant general manager), under the guidance of Gavin Bate will attempt Everest via the South East ridge in the spring of 2008. If either Kinch or Taylor are successful they will become the youngest Irish male to summit.

　　In preparation for their Everest Expedition, Kinch and Taylor are climbing 3 other mountains on 3 continents between June 2007 and their April 4th departure for Kathmandu. They have already completed Mt Blanc and Kilimanjaro and shall head off to Argentina on December 27th to attempt Aconcagua via the Polish glacier. The year long project is in aid of the Kitandwe school project. A school they have chosen to build in their sponsored village in Uganda in partnership with the Irish charity Fields of Life.

　　Due to the small size of the Everest team they have far greater flexibility in their approach. They will be deviating from convention by using Gorak Shep (the original Hillary 1953 base camp) as their base camp and will carry out their acclimatisation on neighbouring peaks such as Pokalde, Island Peak and Lobuje.

　　Everest from the South Side in Nepal

　　Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350 meters)

　　This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest.  Base camp is located at 17,500 feet.   This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain.  This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary.  Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically challenging (though you must be very fit).

　　From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall.    This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push.

　　The Icefall is in constant motion.  It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below.  This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing.   The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.

　　Camp I - 5900 meters

　　After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet.  Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by Sherpas in advance.

　　The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm.  As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp.  Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.

　　Camp II - 6500 meters

　　As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest).  The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall.  Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber‘s life.  Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps.

　　Camp III - 23,700 feet (7200 meters)

　　To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many  Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.

　　Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)

　　As you’re leaving C4…it‘s a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it‘s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you‘re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it‘s easier to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which aren‘t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.

　　Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers‘ first overnight stay in the Death Zone.  The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet.  Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name “Death Zone.”  The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur.  Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above.  Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.

　　Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push.  It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations.  It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting descent from summit attempts (both successful and not).  Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.

　　From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet.  The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest.  The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time.  Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest’s altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.

　　Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)

　　Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet.  The summit sits at the top of the world.  Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth‘s curve, it is the highest peak on earth.  Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level.  If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes.  Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible.   The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.

　　As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit